New York Fashion Week: Prabal Gurung Fall/Winter '17
Femininity with a bite
For the cover of its January issue, British Vogue chose plus size model Ashley Green. In her Editor's letter, Alexandra Shulman expressed her regrets about the many fashion houses that plainly refused to lend clothes for the photo shoot because of the model size. Last Sunday in New York, Prabal Gurung sent on the catwalk two models of unconventional size: Candice Huffine and Marquita Pring. And guess what, the clothes looked exactly as beautiful as on the slimmer models, with the added benefit that it made many of the buyers and press sitting in the audience realise that these clothes can work splendidly on "normal" people too, what a better promise for good sales?
Size, alongside cross functionality, was an issue that Prabal explored in the overcoats of its runway — opened by Bella Hadid who was wearing a white knitted woollen maxi sweater with a fur hood, followed by a grey hooded cape-dress. An oversized white wool mantel-coat featured white clouds of cotton, wool details on the sleeves, and the hem colour palette of white and grey was punctuated by patterned coats. While the oversized outerwear seemed a call for protection, the evening dresses showed a liberated body, with fluid lighter fabrics adhering to the silhouette's contours, exposing sometimes the skin through cuts at the waistline or shoulders, deep décolleté and transparencies on the shoulders, throughout the chest or throughout the body in a shimmering ruby red. Flattering fringes embellished a silk black evening jacket, which was worn over a fringed purple long top limbing the ankles with over-the-knees white boots. Fluid okra yellow, emerald and purple-red sometimes in a velvet texture were the dominating colours, interspersed by patterned shimmering silver dresses and shirts with one cerulean ensemble of a flowing cow-boyish silk shirt, worn over trousers of the same tone and tied by the omnipresent cord belt which seemed to embrace most of the dresses and the outerwear of this collection.
Browse through the Fall/Winter '17 collection here...
The show was closed by Prabal Gurung, wearing a T-Shirt on which read: "This is how a feminist looks like", while pointing his finger to the audience with his wrist wrapped with a white bandana — the symbol of the movement #tiedtogether, inaugurated by Imran Amed from The Business of Fashion — to make a stance for inclusion and diversity. Maybe the line about feminism wasn't totally new, however, in the light of the models he chose, it looked like an incitement to the fashion industry to promote inclusion and diversity from within going beyond one size fits all approach.
Another fashion brand that took a political approach to the runway is Public School. Browse through their Fall/Winter '17 collection, which was also showcased during New York Fashion Week.