Dior and Saint Laurent wrap up day one of Paris Fashion Week
Dior kicked off the Paris Fashion Week calendar with its most colourful collection to date. For Spring/Summer '22, Maria Grazia Chiuri looked back to one of the Maison's most pivotal moments – Marc Bohan's 1961 debut, where he went on the be the longest-serving Creative Director for the House.
Paying homage to the 'Slim Look' designed by Bohan, the new seasonal collection reimagined the classics with a youthful allure featuring bold colour-blocking, graphic prints, lustrous fabrics and higher hemlines. We also spotted some cropped tailoring, patch pockets, inverted pleats, shorts, miniskirts, bold buttoning and glittering evening looks that echoed the set's nightclub ambience.
The enthusiastic embrace of colour was a highlight as this is perhaps, the most colourful Dior collection to date. From the clothes to the backdrop, the hues were translated onto the set decorated by veteran artist Anna Paparatti.
Saint Laurent returned to the Eiffel tower to showcase Anthony Vaccarello's latest designs for Summer '22. The lineup of looks boasted major '80s vibes through pieces that were meticulous, exaggerated and that made a statement. The designer wanted to pay tribute to Paloma Picasso's independent spirit – a figure that was vital in Yves Saint Laurent's creative journey.
"For a long time, I wanted to transpose this meeting between Paloma Picasso and Yves Saint Laurent, whose importance few realize in the designer’s creative journey, explained Vaccarello in the show notes. "It is a moment to which I am sensitive as a designer, because for me it is the defining moment when Saint Laurent’s fashion creativity became a style."
Echoing her spirited seduction and energy, the collection consisted of classic jackets and blazers with sharp structure, clashes of colour, printed flowers and elongated silhouettes.
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