Paris Fashion Week: Sonia Rykiel Autumn/Winter 15
A moment to reflect
Sonia Rykiel's legacy continues to live on in the fashion label that has no shortage of personality and Julie de Libran's Autumn/Winter 15 line up, much like her Spring/Summer 15 debut last season, continues to demonstrate her understanding of playful character of the label. Staging the presentation in the same Saint-Germain-des-Pres store as last season, the stage was set amongst a pop-up cafe library with books all around and mirrors dotted about the space, and a carpeted blue runway with quirky lips and cigarette motifs underfoot.
Reflection seemed to be the theme: "Mirrors never lie," said de Libran, who infused the looking glass' reflective qualities into the collection with shiny silver strips and stripes accenting mini skirts and sweaters as well as the ultimate in light – the silver flaired leather trousers. The seventies look was present in the form of shapes such as the aforementioned flares, as well as the brown and burnt orange based chevron two piece pants and sweater combination, the pants cut in the season's 'it' style of cropped flair.
Coats were fluffy and fury, coming in varied hues of merlot, brown and black which rippled in protruding fur folds, maintaining a luxury finish without loosing its character. The colour fade treatment extended to many other pieces in the collection, a shaggy sleeveless jacket being another one.
Velvet also played a leading role in the highly textured lineup, serving conversely as a light absorber, feeling deep and rich, compared to the shiny silvers that pinged light around the space. The deep navy jumpsuit in velvet was a collection highlight, which had a deep plunging 'V' neckline right down to the waist band.