Paris Fashion Week: Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 15
Too cool for school
Saint Laurent creative director, Hedi Slimane presented a too-cool-for-school Autumn/Winter 15 collection in Paris, which exhibited a distinctly 90's aesthetic. Ripped leather, ripped fishnet stockings, jagged unkept hair and heavy black eyes that at times resembled a mask. None of which we can say is exactly new, in fact it could be described as familiar, but rather it is a strategy. A high-school, wayward, truant, disaffected, detention rebel feel pulsed from the runway, taking the audience back to high school, whether this was the relatable image from one's own era is irrelevant. The effect was to make us all feel like we want to hang out with the popular kids.
The clothes were tough, edgy without being on the edge of anything new, and very much about being exposed and not caring, sheerness, and hip high slashes on mini skirts were nonchalantly modelled. Shoulders were very much on show in abundant strapless and one shoulder necklines. One particularly enjoyable detail that adorned more than one dress, was a chiffon mesh ruffle that rose high above a strapless chest line towards the face.
If skirts weren't skin tight and micro short, then they were prom flared with intentionally careless mesh peeking out underneath, there was no innocence about it. Jackets and pants were on the masculine side, which made sense with the selected soundtrack Pretty Boy, which nodded to the androgynous styling of the models.