New York Fashion Week: Ralph Lauren Autumn/Winter 15
Ralph Lauren presented a visually low key collection, by comparison to his Spring/Summer 15 colour burst. Autumn/Winter 15 tapered the colour scope to an almost exclusive palette of brown hues, with warm cream shades employed to soften the plain.
"The idea was how to make texture – sweaters, shearling – luxurious," Lauren said backstage. If this was the question he asked himself when he set out to design the collection, then the collection itself is quite simply the perfect response.
Texture and fabric was the pack leader here, in a vaguely folky feeling ensemble. With the consistency of the fawny and "truffle" tones, the dimensions of the shearling, cashmere, fur trims and feather ruffles were free to do the talking. Their message was clear – chic, luxurious day wear.
Low slung belts slouched on the hips with attitude (of the 'don't mess' variety.) Layers upon layers of knits and long line coats still kept silhouettes long, lithe and unbroken.
The evening collection stayed in the safety zone and was almost exclusively all black. But some could argue that "if it ain't broke..." A glittering metallic gown brought some shine. A low cut and high slashed tuxedo number was about the most scandalous design on the runway, accompanied by an actual tuxedo (giving us another glimpse of that 'don't mess attitude'.) And a number of classically simple strapless bustier black gowns that were beautiful in their simplicity.