New York Fashion Week: Oscar de la Renta Autumn/Winter 15
Peter Copping's debut
Just a few city blocks away in a Bronx neighbourhood, a street bears his name and he is immortalised to the City of New York. But at the 42nd street show, the house of Oscar De La Renta was showing for the first time, without the much loved man himself.
His successor, Peter Copping, was hand picked by Oscar, but the two were sadly denied the leisurely handover and side-by-side time working and getting to know each other: "Unfortunately, I only met Oscar on a number of occasions," Copping said during an interview. "But I think we immediately struck it up."
Copping's collection for Autumn/Winter 15, is a testament to his understanding of Oscar de la Renta's vision of how women wear fashion, and more importantly what the Oscar de la Renta customer wants in her wardrobe. The variety was broad enough to include tribute pieces (most notably the evening gowns) but also to indicate the new energy and force that Copping is capable of bringing to the design table.
As the skirt suits, embellished cropped jackets and mid-thigh little black dress with glittering shoulder appliqués, streamed down the runway in a flow that crescendoed with a healthy selection of frothy evening wear, the Oscar de la Renta women were audibly exhaling in relief and delight: Copping gets it.
The fabric selections were on point, rich taffetas and melting silks were abundant, and came in shades of deep magenta and bronze gold, with black and cream anchor points spliced with some floral and geometric print.
Copping expanded on his approach to what might have been his most challenging feat, getting the first collection away: "We both like sophisticated women, feminine and romantic, so we're on par in that respect...I'm sure he'd want me to get on board and find a way to forward the house." Forward certainly does seem to be the only directing that Oscar de la Renta is going...