Milan Fashion Week: Marni Spring/Summer 16
The geometry of colour
Boldly going where no slip dress has ever gone before, Castiglioni translated the otherwise ethereal piece into a modern structured silhouette made of leather with thick black straps which was worn over a long sleeved midi dress in dark teal for Marni's Spring/Summer 16 collection. Opening the show with this look, Castiglioni set the bar for the high-contrast construct that was to follow. According to the show notes, the designer worked on the collection reference-fee, though the complexities of the first half of the show and its palette of primary colours felt reminiscent of a Rubik's cube – especially as seen in the coordinating top and skirt constructed of colourful collage of cartoon lace polka dots in primary shades white white and beige.
The overarching theme of the collection focused on weighty layering, giving the looks a stark contrast and bold graphic finish. A step away from the powdery pinks and sky blues we've been seeing for Spring/Summer 16, the Marini collection came out in a full-on colour-wheel of minimalist silhouettes that somehow felt as equally strong as they did relaxed in languid shapes and flowing fabric. Starting the show off with a primary palette, the collection eased its way into earth tones that offered a softer side to the collection, embellished with sequins for a snazzy spin on daywear.
A leaf print made its way into the collection, appearing on dresses and was later given an artsy upgrade lending a texturised outer layer to a midi-length white t-shirt dress in full navy-blue sequins. And while this is where the texture component seemed to really take shape, it didn't end there. Castiglioni looked to her cartoon lace polka dots to give a ribbed knit dress a flirty finish, as it appeared as the under layer of the garment in navy-blue. Furthermore, the golf ball sized polkadots materialised once more in a midi-length navy-blue sleeveless outer shell that was layered over a white t-shirt and pleated black satin trousers. Take a closer look at the collection in full here, with Buro 24/7 Middle East in the gallery below...