New York Fashion Week: Marc Jacobs Autumn/Winter 15
Marc Jacobs aims to evoke obsession, if you don't love his Autumn/Winter 15 collection, he'll be happy if you hate it: ""We've been criticised for flipping 180 degrees," he said during a preview. "[But] in the manner of the late, great Mrs. Vreeland, that's what fashion is: You love it till you hate it; you hate it till you love it."
In this intricate and finely tuned collection that is as diverse and it is wearable, no stitch has been sewn, no trim has been placed and no coat has been tailored without exacting measures. In recognition of the acute difference between last season and this he said: "Last season, it was so about military as an influence but it became cartoony; this is more about military precision with no military reference."
To try and sum it up, would be an injustice, each piece is singularly considered. Midi length full skirts that cinched at the waist came in a mustard gold and high shine red. Two full length skirts, one in mustard and one in black, came trimmed with black lace in a concentric ripple down its length, both were paired with coasts and in their styling emitted a somewhat Victorian sense.
On the opposite end of the spectrum from the volume, came the flush lines of various black sheath dresses, cutting a close fit and adding just as much elegance with exactly the opposite method of delivery. There were an abundance of coats, that couldn't disguise their Marc Jacobs identity (the clue is in the buttons.)
"Many things are fine," Jacobs said. "I don't want fine. I want, 'I can't live without it,' and then, 'I'd never be caught dead in it.' That's better than fine. That's obsession."