Paris Fashion Week: Iris Van Herpen Autumn/Winter 15
Iris Van Herpen presented her Autumn/Winter 15 collection in Paris, which bore the hallmarks of the expressive designer's mission statement. This lineup explored the innovation in technique (which are often digital) with materials and extending the form of the female body: "For me fashion is an expression of art that is very close related to me and to my body. I see it as my expression of identity combined with desire, moods and cultural setting." And as the varied forms and structures emerged on the runway, they presented like wearable architecture.
Her collections often present like sculptural art, influenced by dynamic energies such as magnetism and flow. This season there is a cyclical theme underlying the shapes, the centrepiece and talking point was the circle dress, meticulously constructed by thousands of concertina folds on a rigid sheer fabric, densely fanned into contours across the body and then sparsely, in sheer beyond it. The fabric shimmered, almost like an oil slick on water, and gave the impression of perpetual motion. The same effect applied to a cropped strapless top, this time fanning upwards over the face.
Although some pieces were multidimensional and perhaps, harder to wear, there were plenty of pieces that would easily function in any wardrobe. A blood-red jumpsuit with crossover halter-neck that would be an easy pick for evening, a mini black dress with a skater skirt that had the same neck treatment also. And there were plenty of functional coats and jackets in neutral and easy to wear hues.