Paris Fashion Week: Givenchy Autumn/Winter 15
Riccardo Tisci's collection for Givenchy Autumn/Winter 15 delivered a powerful visual mixture of the "aggressive aesthetics" of the Latin chola girl and stark Victorian elegance. Corsetry and bodice work blurred the lines between these two polarised cultural references and the transition between one to the other seemed effortlessly fluid.
Cropped bull-fighter bolero jackets, became cinched tails in the blink of an eye, perhaps the common equestrian denominator, although never remotely overt, was the key to this blend. One could imagine a South American horseback presentation one minute, and an English country canter the next. 'V' panelling on blouses and shoulder ruffles helped cement the connection.
The collection and the presentation were fantastic and there was no shortage of wow-factor. The jewelled face design was way out there, the hair intricately curled at the temples and parted flatly in the centre before being pulled back was surely the "aggressive aesthetic" we heard about. But the femininity of the silhouettes of the dresses coats and jackets, and richness of the velvet and lace fabrics pulled together a romantic femininity to soften the harshness. The result was beautiful.