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First look: Louis Vuitton Cruise 2014/15

First look: Louis Vuitton Cruise 2014/15

In the shadow of the Monégasque palace

Image: Louis Vuitton

Sportswear with the most stylish application took centre stage in Monaco last night, where Nicolas Ghesquière showed his first ever Cruise collection for Louis Vuitton

A custom-built glass cube in the square overshadowed by the Monégasque palace was the location that stunned for Louis Vuitton's Cruise 2014/14 presentation last night, following a recent announcement by Buro 24/7 Middle East.

It also follows the appointment of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, who debuted his new approach for the brand during Paris Fashion Week AW14.

As the show started, a motorised curtain whirred and closed around the windows to the venue, blocking out the palace – it was a similar approach to that taken by the label's last show, and when the show finished they were drawn back suddenly, flooding the venue with daylight.

However when the models began to walk the catwalk's meandering bends this time, the surprise came when a contemporary film by French video artist Ange Leccia transmitted from the floor made up of screens...

In terms of the collection, it is worth remembering that Ghesquière frequently referenced extreme sports styles of surfing and scuba in his collections past (for Balenciaga, where he designed the label from 1997 until 2012), and last night, dresses were colour-banded like wetsuits and fastened with thick industrial zips, much in the same way.

The technique – and quite amazing use of textile (think inlaid silks, custom woven lace, crusted embroideries like barnacles or sea urchins) made the sporty, cruise vacation inspiration simply A-grade fashion.