New York Fashion Week: Derek Lam Autumn/Winter 15
Inspired by the New York woman
Derek Lam spiralled into a new venue, with low seating configured to resemble an angular maze "We wanted a bit more atmosphere," he said of the new venue choice. Light brown wooden wall coverings set the foundation for the palette of brown hues, enlivened by burnt orange, camel and blue tones.
Lam has drawn inspiration from the women of New York for his latest designs, and pulsed a seventies current through the tailored collection. "New York women, specifically Mia Farrow, Dianne Wiest and those Woody Allen kinds of characters." are the key influences, and those touches of Annie Hall are hard to miss, but skilfully reworked for a modern take.
Lam's collection is more than a cinematic homage to Allen, and is directly informed by what women want to wear and what informs their wardrobe. As a designer who personally attends trunk shows, he likes to hear first hand from his end users: "I ask women, 'how do you use fashion?' and I try to respond to that." This collection is another example of Lam's preference to address the requirements of the women who wear his designs, over the inclination to seep his shows with fanfare and editorial fodder.
Seemingly simple ensembles were treated with an element of flair to transform them from classics into fashion. Graphic felted edges were added to camel skirts to elevate interest, a double hemmed jacket added depth to the classic pant-suit and a high shine finish lifted a schoolgirl skirt. Exaggerated elements – a bold collar, an open back – that intensified the glam of several ultrachic trenchcoats. In fact, collar's really popped for Lam's Autumn/Winter 15 collection.