Paris Fashion Week: Chanel Autumn/Winter 15
We've reserved you a table at Chanel's Brasserie Gabrielle...
Chanel knows how to satisfy our fashion appetites as it transforms the Grand Palais into an authentic Parisian brasserie – Brasserie Gabrielle. The setting was elaborate, of course, and no detail went unexplored from the traditional bow-tie and waistcoat clad silver service waiters to the spot on decor of the red cedar wood and brass hardware interiors, right down to the BG mosaic insignia on the floor at the entry way, which also bore the emblematic Chanel logo.
Seats were laid out like dining tables covered with crisp white linen cloths, complete with cutlery and napkins, perhaps because the show's attendees (or diners) were served refreshments and patisseries at the well stocked bar, which once the show began served as the catwalk centrepiece as the busy baristas continued to work away behind it. This was not an à la carte affair, Karl Lagerfeld had prepared a lineup of house specials and who are we to question what the house recommends?
As the models meandered through the brasserie in this season's creations, which are dripping with Chanel design DNA. One could not escape the Frenchness: the brasserie, the classic Chanel touches and fabrics, the refinement – this was very much 'The French Collection' that the menu professed it to be.
Dark beauty details were revealed, hair was largely pulled back, sometimes in a sweet black hair band, and eyes were smoky black from brow to lid. Delevingne and Jenner modelled variants on the same jacket theme, one in monochrome with the bell-boy button up front re-interpretation, a call back to the Reincarnation short-film, and hundreds of tiny bow appliqués marking each corner of the diamond shape puffs. The other an all black version with bow-shaped reliefs sunken into the jacket. Other incarnations of the same, came in variations of white and black and tweed and it was all about the voluminous arms.
Skirts and dresses predominantly danced just above or just below the knee, a modest directive from Lagerfeld, which was supported by the uniform footwear that came in the form of a two inch block heeled slingback in neutral beige, with the recognisably Chanel black toe, this time in a point. Fabrics were largely woven textured tweeds and grids, some were geometric and shades were plucked from all areas of the colour chart, rich in variation and one could even say – flavour. Softer and more youthful accents came through in light floating chiffon dresses in black worn over a nude slip and delicately buttoned down to the waist. Styled with a delicate shoulder covering cape, fastened around the neck with a prim and pretty bow.