Cathy Horyn makes her comeback with a new column for T Magazine
What women want
Since leaving The New York Times back in January of this year, Cathy Horyn has remained off the fashion radar, however, this week the opinionated fashion critic is back with a bang, and her topic of choice? The commercialisation of fashion.
The interesting article for The New York Times' T Magazine begins with Horyn quoting what Gloria Emerson wrote about Yves Saint Laurent's fashion and vision during the Summer of 1965. Emerson went over the many influences that the French designer had, from rock 'n' roll and his famous Mondrian shift dress to paying homage to Russian gypsies.
Horyn then breaks her silence by saying how Hedi Slimane revived the youthful mood back to Saint Laurent, discussing how the creative director strives to make "straightforward commercial fashion that a woman can instantly relate to."
Horyn talks about how unlike Yves Saint Laurent's past predecessors, Slimane only looked back to one period of work from Yves, the 1960's, but infusing it with his own California 'cool' vibe. "I'm no fan of Slimane's, but he's clever. In two years as creative chief, he has barely broken a sweat as he fetches another pussy bow from the '60s time capsule. Last year, Saint Laurent led Kering's three biggest luxury brands in revenue growth with an 18 percent rise, beating Gucci and Bottega Veneta." Horyn notes.
Horyn praises Slimane for his clever marketing skills and how he always seems to capture the mood of present day... "So why write about Slimane now? Here's why: If you accept that fashion reflects the times – and I do – then you have to concede that in this respect Slimane has been impressive, even prescient."
Horyn also raises the valid point of how iconic fashion houses from around the world seem to be following in Slimane's modern footsteps, saying, "Even Nicolas Ghesquière, with his much-anticipated first collection for Louis Vuitton, showed wearable styles with polish: trim coats, '60s-cut minis, modest accessories. And that's not what people expect from Ghesquière."
The acclaimed fashion writer finished off her article by admitting, "So, while I may not care for Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent, it doesn't matter. He has grasped modernity in its totality."