New York Fashion Week: Calvin Klein Autumn/Winter 15
Mod rock chic
Calvin Klein's Autumn/Winter 15 collection, helmed by Francisco Costa, continued to pulse with the urban cool vibe that the label has been exuding in recent collections. A coherent sixties throwback marked the collection, but didn't detract from its current and modern identity.
Hems took no middle ground here and came in highs or lows exclusively. The highs were formed of mod-inspired shift dresses in rich patchwork calf hair in warmed up blush tone with a central back leather stripe from the neck with hardware. Necklines were leather trimmed throughout the collection and a few dresses received the special treatment of an expanded circle key-hole, a new take on the familiar.
Trench coats were a strong force of the collection, dressed with slightly oversized circle buttons, which nodded to the Sixties theme. Trenches came in long and short and also received the patchwork treatment, in slim panels.
The collection's emphasis was on cool, and the evening pieces were understated. A long black dress with a racer neck in leather trim was simultaneously uncomplicated yet skilfully commanding.