Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS16: Raf Simons
In with the old and the new
When away from the heritage and design codes of the incomparable Christian Dior, Raf Simons tells a very different design story with his eponymous collection for menswear Spring/Summer 16. Grappling with the extremes between youth and the aged, this collection aims to find some common ground, but not without some graft.
Shrouded plaid and checked hoods almost entirely covered the faces of models, a nod to the hooded youth cultures, but brought to life through hand-me-down fabrics from an older generation – a concept pervading the collection that he refers to as "generational communication." Accessory bucket bags came with long heavy chains, presenting as symbolic for all manner of things, hard labour, tools, bridging gaps, or the melancholy chains of our past.
Lighter notes bounced down the runway in the form of reimagined retro knitwear, mostly of the vest variety and well appointed embellished loose cut trench coats in terracotta and navy.