London Men's Fashion Week: DKNY, Jimmy Choo and Pringle of Scotland
A veritable melting pot
The New York heavyweight made the move to London this season, with a sleek Summer collection full of references to its namesake city, including relaxed tailoring, technical fabrics and sporty details.
A blue wool suit was blended with a baseball shirt, while a bright mustard T-shirt was paired with pants in parachute cotton. However the cool outerwear made a real impact – especially a deep yellow fireman’s coat, a traditional grey mac and a sharp navy peacoat.
"The whole collection came from the fact that I am obsessed about walking," said Sandra Choi yesterday, talking of the ready-to-wear creations under the footwear label. The runway collection soundtrack even began with the sound of heels clacking on pavement, while models stood on a raised circular platform around the assembled guests seated below, sporting traditional styles with contemporary appeal.
There were brogues with colourful, airbrushed graffiti marks plus more refined versions with extended toecaps. Also present were patent creeper loafers, rubber-soled Chelsea boots and high-top sneakers. "The Mayfair playboy is stepping out of his comfort zone," said Choi, "He's smart but a little street, and the collection is a balance of the both."
For Scottish heritage brand Pringle, designer Massimo Nicosia blended tradition with new technology treatments for a collection that was presented in an ornate Victorian mansion built by William Waldorf Astor – overlooking the Thames. In fact, the green William Morris wallpaper in one room was used in a pixilated version of for jacquard sweaters. Nicosia also prooted a 'ladder' knit created with a 3-D printer, as well as experimenting with wool in cotton, silk and Lycra, and molding styles under intense heat so they resembled cable knits.