Fashion Month AW14: In with the new
The creative director change up
"In just a few days New York City will start the fashion month marathon for the new season ahead. Designers in the world's fashion capitals will show their Autumn/Winter 14/15 collections to audiences waiting in anticipation – and no doubt a particular interest will be directed toward to the fashion houses under new creative direction this year.
One such fashion house is that of legendary Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli, which was closed in 1954 before re-launching during couture week this year. The once 'shocking' Schiaparelli line is now creatively managed by Marco Zanini, a designer of half Swedish and half Italian origin, and former designer of the label, Rochas. Following an acclaimed presentation in January, Paris Fashion Week AW14 this time around is time for the talented Zanini to show his hand at RTW. In 2011 Vogue wrote about Zanini's creative handwriting, 'beauty that's not obvious, sexiness without stilettos.' Considering such characterisation, I think it is interesting to see synthesis from the archives of surrealist mouthpiece Schiaparelli and Zanini's comparably modest aesthetics...
Topically, the creative director of French fashion house Rochas is also a well known Italian, Alessandro Dell'Acqua, who shall manage his own fashion house No.21 – the name of which is related to the birth date of the designer – whilst taking on his new post. Dell'Acqua states that it is a great honour for him to collaborate with a fashion house like Rochas, which has long been associated with French sophistication and couture spirit.
Moving on to other labels, 16 successful and creative years at Louis Vuitton is finished for Marc Jacobs. He is replaced by Balenciaga's former creative director Nicholas Ghesquière – a man who is deservedly described by Suzi Menkes in the International Herald Tribune as 'one of the most outstanding designers of his generation', and now has to prove his abilities to the giant conglomerate of luxury fashion LVMH.
There are changes at the house of Moschino as well. Rossela Jardini (who obtained the position of creative director after the death of Moschino house founder Franco Moschino) relinquishes her position to American designer Jeremy Scott. Moschino owners are expecting Scott's eclectic style to create an interesting reinterpretation of the Moschino DNA.
Thierry Mugler and designer Nicola Formichetti have also finally parted company. Presently Mugler – an iconic brand of the 90s – is managed by Georgian David Koma, who was educated at Central Saint Martins in London. The designer will play his new role and provide a certain modernisation of the brand from January this year. His first collection will be presented in June, whilst a full collection and show is planned in September.
Nicola Formichetti, the Italian designer born in Tokyo – famous for creating Lady Gaga's 'meat dress' – will take care of the creative aesthetics for iconic jeans brand, Diesel.
Jonathan Williams Anderson
The year has also brought interesting changes for one other young designer – Jonathan Williams Anderson, known as J.W Anderson – who transferred his eponymous brand under the management of LUXUS conglomerate to LVMH, and found himself appointed as Spanish brand Loewe's creative director. Loewe is famous for the production of beautiful luxury leather goods.
Anderson's move brings us to the final chapter of the creative director change up; and Loewe's former head Stuart Vevers has switched label's to American mega-brand, Coach. Vevers, who in the past has been credited with transforming the Mulberry brand, transformed its ordinary bags into 'it' bags, will surely bring a special style and popularity to Coach's accessories, too. Plus the label plans to conquer the hearts of customers with a RTW line.
In conclusion, a fresh season is coming – let's see how the power balance shall be distributed on the world's fashion map... and make it relevant now."