Buro 24/7 Exclusive Interview: Delpozo Creative Director, Josep Font
Welcoming the Spanish invasion
During New York Fashion Week's Autumn/Winter 14 collections shown in February, there was one name in particular that made a huge sartorial impact. DELPOZO, the 40-year-old Spanish label recently revived by creative director Josep Font, has offered a selection of cool prints in unexpected, contemporary silhouettes for the season ahead – in a totally new and youthful way.
In other words, with it's AW14 collection, the Spanish heritage brand formerly known as Jesús del Pozo – and then concentrating on ultra ladylike eveningwear and bridal gowns (and perhaps best known for its perfumes) – has entered fashion's 'big league'.
It's cemented itself a regular place on the NYFW circuit and DELPOZO's now-signature optical illusion patterns; exaggerated, scalloped 3D pleats and unusual colour combinations have already been noticed on Hollywood's red carpet.
Buro 24/7 sits down with the man behind the big change, Josep Font:
Congratulations on a stellar AW14 collection. DELPOZO has a 40-year-long heritage in Madrid, how did you approach changes when you joined the company just over a year ago?
It was a real challenge for me to take on this position and continue building as prestigious of a brand as DELPOZO.
Jesús del Pozo has left an aesthetic and artistic legacy for the fashion history of our country, and that will always be there, but my intention is to offer a new proposal with respect, but looking new codes and new language for the brand and starting a new stage.
You studied architecture and design in Spain before becoming a fashion designer, how has your past contributed to the future of DELPOZO?
Studying architecture was a very good experience; now you can appreciate that in my designs; for example; volume is one of the characteristics of the brand and has been presented in every collection. As in architecture, you have to take into account functionality of the elements but at the same time their overall integration.
February marked the first time the label has shown at NYFW, and it was warmly received. What did you learn from this experience?
New York was always part of our business strategy. After these four collections I think that all the effort has been worthy. I am very happy with the work we are doing. The balance and the reviews have been great and the collection has been sold very well which helps us to keep working and improve ourselves every day.
Women, like art, have no age. They have no determined shape or size
Who is the DELPOZO woman now? How does she differ from the heritage customer?
DELPOZO woman has always been the same one. Women, like art, have no age. They have no determined shape or size. DELPOZO's women are defined by a mixture of intelligence, elegance and a particular way of relating to the world.
Who do you admire?
I personally admire Spanish designers such as Balenciaga, Pertegaz, Pedro Rodriguez and Fortuny. I also love the work of French designers like Madame Vionnet and Poiret. Talking about art, I really like artist like Corot, Basquiat, Duilio Barnabé and expressionist artist.
How do you relax when you aren't working?
I enjoy reading a book or watching a good movie. Above all, I am really happy spending time in my country house at L'Empordà, in the north of Spain, making a special meal with my friends.
How do you feel about fashion and style in the Middle East? Do you have any specific plans for the market here?
We are a worldwide company, our plan is reinforcing our international positioning by building our brand image in fashion emblematic locations as well as the new luxury markets such as the Middle East.
Talk us through the Autumn/Winter 14 collection, the inspiration and its reference points.
The DELPOZO Autumn/Winter 2014 collection has two fundamental sources of inspiration: the work of the Italian artist Duilio Barnabé and the retro-futuristic esthetic based on the novel Logan's Run. We imagine a "lyrical abstraction" that synthesises both styles in our personal vision of autumn.
Each piece is shown in its purest form, creating a sensation of timelessness and continuity in time, maintaining the characteristics of each DELPOZO collection: feminine, organic and fresh.
We want to work on fashion emblematic locations as well as the new luxury markets, such as the Middle East
What is next on the agenda for the brand?
We continue working with the same enthusiasm and excitement; internationalisation continues to be our priority. After the presentation of our last collection, the incorporation of Indre Rockefeller as president of DELPOZO US and the opening of our store in Miami we established the brand in the USA. We have entered key markets such as Europe, Middle East and Asia and this will continue to be our main objective: to establish our position in international markets.
Currently we are preparing the new DELPOZO Spring/Summer 2015 collection and the DELPOZO perfume. The world of perfumes has always fascinated me. It requires a lot of learning, knowledge and sensitivity, which is difficult to recreate.