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On reflection: Ann Demeulemeester

On reflection: Ann Demeulemeester

A chronicle of her key career moments

Image: Ann Demeulemeester

With an influence on the fashion industry that cannot be overstated, Buro 24/7 chronicles the key dates in the career of Ann Demeulemeester

To briefly summarise the work of Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester is near impossible. Following the news of her departure from the industry, Buro 24/7 chronicles the key dates the fashion hero across a nearly 30-year career.

1978 
Ann Demeulemeester enrols at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, where she subsequently leaves as one of the legendary 'Antwerp Six'. Within the walls of the institution she wasn't initially comfortable, finding fashion at the time uninteresting. She soon became fond of photography and met photographer Patrick Robin, her then future business partner.  

Ann D Retrospective

Ann Demeulemeester by Patrick Robin, 1978

1982 

Demeulemeester wins the 'Golden Spindle' award, an initiative designed to support the Belgian textile industry. The organiser's objective was to link designers and manufacturers. Designers from the Antwerp Academy were usually ignored, due to their small ordering capacity. 

Ann D Retrospective

Golden Spindle Award, 1982

1987 
The year that saw the designer's debut collection entitled 'Light', created in partnership with Patrick Robin. It was an A/W collection which was shown in exhibition format. There was immediate interest from the buyers of New York department store Barneys. The line instantly sold out, and has been stocked there consistently ever since. 

Ann D Retrospective

Ann Demeulemeester AW/87

1992 

Demeulemeester shows in Paris, a city she had previously always avoided, staying loyal to London. The first Parisian show was held at a gallery where models paced across an improvised podium in dark clothes, inspired by gothic punk. Journalist Cathy Horyn, who was then writing for the Washington Post, called the collection the "reflective destructive side of fashion." And Ann Demeulemeester's work went on to be featured in Vogue.

Ann D Retrospective

Ann Demeulemeester SS/92

Ann D RetrospectiveVisionaire Magazine Issue 7, 1992 

1996 

The designer presents her first men's collection, which showed an androgynous mix on the catwalk alongside female models. Four years after her Paris debut, Demeulemeester's style has undergone some changes; a lengthened silhouette which has become more subtle and elegant.

Ann Demeulemeester AW95

1999 

Ann Demeulemeester opens its first boutique in Antwerp, up to this the label had only retailed out of department stores. Today, the two-storey boutique is a mandatory visit for in the city.

Ann D Retrospective

Ann D Retrospective

Ann Demeulemeester's first boutique in Antwerp, 1992 

2005 
The year of the label's first men's show in Paris. Models walked to the song Sunday Morning by The Velvet Underground and the spirit of the collection was "poetic anarchy," said the designer herself. 

Ann D Retrospective

Ann Demeulemeester SS/06

2008 
The year of 'Collection Blanche'. On the anniversary of the brand, Demeleumeester released a compilation of her most significant designs over the prior twenty years...  

Ann D Retrospective

Ann Demeulemeester 'Blanche', 2008

2013 
This year, Demeleumeester wrote a hand written note to her company saying, "Ann Demeulemeester is an adult brand, able to develop and grow without me."  And in the meantime, fashion industry insiders are left wondering who can possibly lead the brand next. 

Ann D Retrospective

Ann Demeulemeester invitation 2013

Ann Demeulemeester SS14

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