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All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14

Nude, androgyny and glitter accents


Image: Buro 24/7 Russia

Bleached out brows, Nepalese hair partings and glitter splashed eyelids have been on display at New York Fashion week...

Prabal Gurung

Make-up artist Diane Kendal took show guests on a spiritual journey through Nepal via the models at Prabal Gurung. The inspiration of which demanded simplicity for both make-up and hair.

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 1)

Prabal Gurung AW14

Inspired by the Nepalese women's "sun-flushed cheeks" on a recent trip, Kendal created a diffused cheek by pressing MAC Creamsheen Lipstick in 'Party Line' onto the cheek and blending it out with her fingers - the results are a healthy glow, as they had been breathing fresh mountain air and not New York exhaust fumes that very morning. The eyes were deceptively make-up free, yet were actually dusted with a translucent yellowish shade, whilst emphasis was placed on brow lines.

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 2)

Prabal Gurung AW14

Hairstylist Paul Hanlon used photographs of Nepalese women in folk costumes for inspiration backstage. Each with dark straight hair, parted in the middle. He repeated this on the models, however gathered into a low ponytail, with a few loose strands. The look was completed by flesh-toned nails sporting a burgundy stripe, carried out by Jin Sung Choi, founder of JINsoon Nails in New York.

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 3)

Prabal Gurung AW14


Alexander Wang

Diane Kendal stepped up again at Alexander Wang, creating "monochrome" faces with bleached out brows, light coverage foundation, a bit of contouring underneath the cheekbones and in the creases of the eyes, and a few strategic swipes of NARS Illuminator in Copacabana for sheen. "Alex likes it when his models look like boys, and very strong ones, too," she said.

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 4)

Alexander Wang AW14

Over on hair, Guido Palau interpreted the androgynous inspiration via a lacquered style that swept across the forehead like a fringe and wrapped tightly around the sides. "I wanted to do hair that was kind of drawn on," he said. To achieve this, Palau blew strands straight using a Mason Pearson brush, made a deep side part, doused hair from roots to ends with Redken Control Addict 28 High-Control Hairspray, smoothed everything into place, and blew it dry to lock in the shape, with any remaining hair tucked into the back of the collar. "They all look like soldiers, especially when they are together," explained the stylist backstage.

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 5)

Alexander Wang AW14

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 6)

Alexander Wang AW14

 

Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra's colour-led collection called for stylist Odile Gilbert, to create hair that warranted little attention. She said in regards to the placement of the textured chignons that she used nothing but her fingers to scrape strands back before coiling the length and securing it with "just three or four pins." The finished product was meant to mimic how "Kate Moss would craft her own bun."

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 7)

Altuzarra AW14

Make-up artist Tom Pecheux also kept things on the 'ordinary' side, before splashing one or two interesting into the mix. For some girls he swiped fuchsia pink lipstick across eyelids and others had a shock of sparkles added... "When thinking glitter and brights, people remember disco queens..." he explains, "But we used it in a simple way - just a splash on the eyelids for added playfulness. Why not? It's a fashion show." 

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 8)

Altuzarra AW14

All in the detail: Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang and Altuzarra AW14 (фото 9)

Altuzarra AW14

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