Milan Fashion Week: The key beauty trends
Milan's best make-up and hair looks straight from the runway
At the Fendi show, make-up artist Peter Phillips promoted a sky blue dart to the top of lids, while over at Prada, Pat McGrath couldn't find the right "vintage" hue and so mixed three pencils: Grey, brown and black. "The result was almost poetry," said the make-up artist of conjuring up blurry mid-century tones, indicating that the coming season call for boldly experimenting with textures and colours.
Berry shades of lipstick
Dolce & Gabbana's Spanish influence for the season meant that Pat McGrath picked a rich blackberry shade of lipstick, complementing the red roses in models' hair. And a step that went even further was taken by make-up artist Lucia Pieroni, who was inspired by Gauguin's paintings at Missoni. In order to create the complex colour of poppy red used, she first applied matte lips in MAC's 'Dangerous', and then added a pinkish hue called 'Relentlessly Red' in the middle of the lips for a greater depth of tone. "I wanted to be seen as one colour that becomes another," explained the make-up artist backstage.
In the course of the week we saw flowers and scarves, and even a crown. At Fendi Sam McKnight decorated the low disheveled ponytails of the models with massive Fendi accessories such as orchids, fringe details and feathers. At Missoni we saw nearly the same hairstyle only it acquired a kind of tropical tone thanks to a smooth tail created by Paul Hanlon, who used turbans and scarves for decoration. But beyond all was at Dolce & Gabbana, where Guido Palau ensured the hairstyles were decorated with flowers to mimic the jewels of the Spanish royal family. "Feminine and soft – that's how I wanted it our girl to look." He explained.
The most popular hair styles were almost the opposite of a trend – "hair after a workout," which was something especially favoured by Guido Palau. For Versace he chose sports minimalism – "at least by the standards of Donatella." Models looked like they had just done yoga or pilates, with shiny slicked back hair. And at the Bottega Veneta show models were given a look by Palau that turned them into dancers hurrying home after a workout.
The high-shine chrome nails at Dsquared2 reflected light like 10 little mirrors, with every movement models made on the catwalk creating little reflections. And at Giorgio Armani, model's nails were adorned with a new lacquer shade of dark bronze. At Emporio Armani, however, the inky-blue shade matched the dresses walking the runway.