Make-up heros: The backstage stars of Fashion Week
Making it happen: Pat McGrath, Peter Philips and more
New York Fashion Week kicks off today, which means a marathon of fashion shows are set to showcase the latest collections from the leading designers. The world's top models will walk down the runway displaying polished looks that have been created with the help of stylists and make-up artists, who carefully work to compliment each collection. Here we explore some of the most celebrated artists that work behind the scenes during fashion weeks.
British Pat McGrath is considered one of the most influential make-up artists in the world. As a little girl, the artist was fascinated by make-up and used to look up to her mother who loved to mix cosmetics. McGrath's career breakthrough came when she started working with I-D magazine in the early 1990's.
In her early career, she worked closely with Jil Sander and John Galliano, and built a reputation as one of the most trusted artists at prêt-a-porter and couture shows. Brands she has worked with include Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Valentino and Lanvin.
Belgian make-up artist Peter Philips originally wanted to become a hair stylist, but eventually moved to make-up inspired by the work at Paris Fashion Week when he was a student at the Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Similarly to Pat McGrath, Philips worked with I-D magazine and became popular from his collaboration with Raf Simons.
Later, he drew the attention of Karl Lagerfeld, and in 2008 was appointed the creative director at Chanel cosmetics, becoming responsible for all the seasonal collections for the brand. One of his bestsellers is the rich green tint nail varnish Jade Le Vernis, which quickly sold out in stores, with some later resold at $100 apiece.
While Philips left his post at Chanel a year ago, he is still works with the brand for its shows. Glued-on eyebrow fabric strips with sequins and black eye lace are amongst his 'inventions' for Chanel. Along with such extraordinary methods he also perfectly manages to create classic make-up. He not only works with Chanel, but with brands including Fendi, Dries Van Noten, Alexander McQueen and more.
British make-up artist Diane Kendal has been devoted to the industry for nearly 30 years. Her career began with an interest in theatrical makeup. After university, she worked with magazines in London before moving to New York, where she worked alongside Calvin Klein on the creation of a product, which developed a celebrity following.
Kendal has worked with photographers including David Sims and Nathaniel Goldberg, as well as magazines such as Vogue. During fashion week, she has worked backstage at Alexander Wang, Carolina Herrera, Tommy Hilfiger and Jason Wu. When creating a look, she always pays special attention to ensure a smooth skin tone and natural glow.
British make-up artist Dick Page has been working with Japanese brand Shiseido since 1997, and in March 2007 was made creative director of the brand. He has worked with photographers Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Mario Sorrenti, and contributed to publications Vogue, W, and Harper's Bazaar, to name a few. His work is celebrated as very inventive in the industry, since he likes to use different styles. Behind the scenes, he has worked at runway shows for brands Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, and Narciso Rodriguez.
Creative director of Estée Lauder, Tom Pecheux from Burgandy, has been engaged in the make-up industry since he moved to Paris at the age of 19. At first, he didn't pursue a career in beauty, as he started out working as a pastry chef. However, he soon found his calling and gained a reputation working for French Vogue, with support from Mario Testino and Carine Roitfeld. One of his biggest achievements was when he did Princess Diana's make-up for a Vanity Faircover shoot in 1997. Before securing his position at Estée Lauder, Pecheux worked as creative director at Shiseido. He has worked at shows for Isabel Marant, Max Mara, Ralph Lauren, Derek Lam and Marni. He compares his work backstage to the process of cooking (referring to his earlier life), always mixing shades and textures to create the exact look he desires.