In an iconic portrait of 1954, photographer Robert Doisneau captured the standing image of the then 71-year-old Coco Chanel replicated nine times in the mirrored panels that flank the spiral staircase running through the salon where her haute couture collections had been presented since 1928. The photograph suggests the existence of several versions of the same woman, as Chanel was indeed: a designer, businesswoman, leader of style, a woman of society. Fast forward to 2017 Karl Lagerfeld seems to have designed for this multifaceted woman this haute couture show, which devoid of any overplayed theme reverted around the quintessential Chanel signature of couture.

Throughout the show the oversize belt, painted in various tones and materials, seems to tie a wardrobe made for a woman as she moves around from the boardroom to a cocktail party into an evening ball. A mint boucle' ensemble covering a white shirt with a pussycat bow, wrapped by a large silver belt, sets the tone for a streamlined collection painted in powdery colours and sharp lines. A dress coat introduces silvery paillettes for the neckline and the cuffs conferring the otherwise austere look sparkles. Silver appliqués create mirroring effects on the cocktail dresses, while the over-the-knee boots contrast with the delicacy of the taffeta.

As the show progresses into evening wear, it becomes clear that the colour palette is produced to make the woman shine. Particularly charming is a tunic dress in silver glitter, nipped at the waist by a silver belt, with ample sleeves and a long hem of white feathers. It's the white feathers that define the look of the Chanel woman in the evening, also worn as a cape or decorating the sleeves. This totally Chanel show is closed by Lily Rose Depp dressed in a dreamlike pink gown in silk and taffeta with ruffles waving through a long train, signifying that the multifaceted Chanel woman is also up for a fairytale night.

Discover the Chanel Haute Couture collection now...

Also browse through Dior's Spring/Summer '17 haute couture collection.