Weaving leather, heavy metal, and lace panelling into his new lineup for Autumn/Winter 15, Lebanese designer Elie Saab presented a new lean, mean collection at Paris Fashion Week yesterday. The model's eyes were heavily rimmed with kohl, in a beauty look that Carine Roitfeld would approve of, and they strutted out onto the runway with some serious attitude.

Karlie Kloss opened the show, wearing a beautifully-made tailored coat, which was cinched at the waist with a delicate belt, the only skin on show was the model's toes, which peeped out from tough black boots. Flashes of décolletage and thighs then followed, with plunging necklines, and skirts that showed just the right amount of leg.

Saab worked with a dark, autumnal palette, blacks, khaki greens, and stormy blues, with flashes of brighter colours such as crimson red, teal and ocean blue popping up every now and then. A surprising summery print appeared in three looks, and a petrol-esque arty, swirly print was splattered along the hem of a beautiful blue (almost-black) gown.