Marc Jacobs has big changes in store, as the company's plans to grow take the indirect route of ceasing production of its contemporary line, in order to expand. It may seem unconventional to reduce in order to expand but there is some much considered method to this plan. The Marc by Marc Jacobs label's product range and price points are to be assimilated into the signature Marc Jacobs collection.

Rumour has it that these changes have been in the offing since 2013, and were supported by a series of restructuring of the company, with a view to taking the company public with a possible IPO. Though no one involved has confirmed specifics, according to sources, LVMH now owns 80 percent of the Marc Jacobs brand with Jacobs and his long time partner Robert Duffy holding the remaining 20 percent in equal measure. 

Sebastian Suhl started at the house as chief executive officer last autumn and with his arrival, Duffy stepped back from the day-to-day operations to focus on being a full time parent, and to make way for someone with deep multi-brand know-how to steer the company and it's $1 billion revenue in the right direction. 

Jacobs thinks of this as a refreshing new beginning: "In a sense, we're starting at the beginning," he said, referring specifically to the Marc by Marc news. "It sounds like a musical...A very good place to start."

The idea is not to dissolve the contemporary line entirely, quite the opposite in fact, for a revenue stream that accounts for almost half of the company. But rather to streamline the identity of the collections. Jacobs recalls how the Marc by Marc Jacob's early collections were closely connected with the luxury line: "There were cool jeans, a cool jean jacket. There were great T-shirts. There were the military-inspired jackets but they were done in denim or washed cotton velveteen or whatever I felt," Jacobs said. "The aesthetic felt more connected to what we were doing in collection." 

Eventually it became more straight forward to let the line operate independently, something that Jacobs' tellingly says: "once upon a time felt like a good idea and it worked." Jacobs has remarked that whilst on this path, the line lost its uniqueness in a market that had become flooded with similar contemporary designer lines. He in no way attributes this to Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, who have been in charge of women's designs of the Marc by Marc Jacobs line for a number of seasons. 

Looking ahead to the new structure, under Suhl, it is expected that Hillier will remain to design for the contemporary pieces under the single Marc Jacobs label, it is not clear whether Bartley will stay on. But the mission is being established, with a vision to accommodate all price points under a coherent and streamlined, singular label – Marc Jacobs.